Frequently Asked Questions
Select one of the questions to find out it’s answer.
Select one of the questions to find out it’s answer.
In May, 2009, we introduced the WideBody. It's designed to be the widest trailer at the fairing/handlebar level that can use U.S. highways without a wide load sign. It easily accommodates two full-fairing bikes (Ultras, Goldwings, Visions, etc.) and still leaves room to walk out between the bikes after you tie them down. Check them out on our website!
Enclosed Ironhorse Flip Tops come standard with a rolling jack, rear stabilizers, aluminum wheels, radial tires specially made for trailers, LED exterior lights, two interior lights, an aluminum diamond plate tongue cover on the two bikes and WideBodies, two stainless steel license plate screws, an aluminum covered diamond plate threshold plate, and spring assists for the tailgate. Open Ironhorse trailers come standard with white steel wheels, radial tires specially made for trailers, standard exterior lights, wheel chocks and D-rings, a rolling jack, and removable manual push/pull/steer bar.
If there's not a dealer near you, buying from the factory may well be your best option, but there is no cost advantage to bypassing your local dealer. Although we occasionally run seasonal specials, for most of the year, the MSRP is the price.
If you buy from the factory and have it shipped to you, you will pay roughly the same thing the dealer pays to have one shipped to him or her. So no, there is no free lunch. It comes out of your pocket one way or another
They would if the trailers were airtight but the venting that is designed into the trailers allows fumes to escape.
Yes, all Ironhorse Fliptop Trailers are equipped with two interior lights.
No! Since August of 2008 all new Ironhorse chasses have been powder coated, so there won't be any rust to worry about.
A stainless steel D handle and a keyed lock are mounted in the center of the tailgate, which is hinged on the bottom so that it also provides a loading ramp. There's a robust steel upright in each rear corner of the trailer. 3/8" latch rods extend from the door handle through the sides of the tailgate/loading ramp frame. Latching the door extends these rods through corresponding holes in the steel uprights, and turning the key locks the handle and the tailgate.
The surface you ride on in our fliptop trailers is gelcoat with a non-skid surface. Immediately beneath the gelcoat is roughly 3/16" of fiberglass securely laminated to the top of 3/4" Advantek.
Advantek is an engineered wood product manufactured by Huber EngineerednWoods and originally developed to meet the needs of northernnhome builders for a material which would not warp, swell or split if it had to sit under a few inches of snow for several weeks. Unlike plywood, which is made of wood and glue, Advantek is a composite of a little wood and a whole lot of resin (the same resin that is the major ingredient in fiberglass and gelcoat). As a result, our floors are basically impervious to weather and insects.
Our open trailers have the same non-skid gelcoat surface over 1/4" of fiberglass lamintated to the top of 3/4" Advantek which is in turn laminated to another 1/4" of fiberglass on the bottom.
The floors of both kinds of trailers are so strong that wheel chocks and D-rings can be mounted virtually anywhere--not just through frame members.
Fume buildup can be a problem in metal box trailers with tailgates that work like refrigerator doors. Instead Ironhorse tailgates are engineered to keep water out while allowing air to flow freely. Our design relies on the fact that while air can flow uphill and around corners, water can't.
All enclosed Flip Top Ironhorse trailers have a combination tailgate/loading ramp strong enough to handle the sizes and numbers of bikes the trailers are designed to haul. All open Ironhorse trailers have a built in tilt mechanism that eliminates
the need for loading ramps.
It can be but it doesn't have to be. Bad tie-down experiences come from trying to put too much bike(s) in too small a trailer, using standard upside down U-shaped wheel chocks, and failure to exploit the unique geometry of motorcycle front ends. Too-much bike in too small a trailer is so common that a lot of bikers are surprised to learn that no, you don't always have to stagger two bikes or put one in backwards.
U-shaped wheel chocks are one step better than nothing. The problem with them is that they typically let the front wheel lean over on its kick stand, so the first thing many people do is secure the handlebars with a couple of straps--upfront where space is really tight. By contrast, our drive-on step-off wheel chocks grab the front wheel so well that you can dismount and tie your bike down at your leisure--unless your ride is a chopper, but that's another story.
Once your bike is as far in our drive-in step-off wheel chock as it will go, what happens if you tie a couple of strap onto the frame behind the transmission and 12-18 inches above the floor and ratchet both sides down hard? Clearly the back of the bike will move forward. But wait a minute the front tire can't go any further? Yeah, but don't forget the front end is raked. So when you ratchet the back end forward, the front end compresses! And that is why 1) two heavy duty straps are all you need to tie down most bikes, and 2) why you don't need a front door.
First align your bike with the wheel chock an then ride briskly up the ramp and forward into your chock. If you have our drive-in step-off wheel chocks, you simply step off and tie it down. If you don't, you may have to get somebody to hold it upright while you tie it down.
See the answer to the previous question for a more thorough explanation of tying down your bike.
First, for every $100 you spend for gas pulling a box trailer, you'll only spend $70-$80 to tow one of ours besides being able to tow with a smaller vehicle and less wear and tear. Second, not only will you be able to tow as fast as you want to, crosswinds won't buffet you about or even blow you off the road. Third, you'll get years of satisfaction from owning a useful conversation piece with timeless good looks rather than a metal box likely to lose half it's value when you pull it off the lot and destined to quickly become an eyesore.
Beyond that, not all box trailers are created equal. Ours are high quality trailers. High quality costs more. Box trailers similar in size and quality to our fliptops, typically cost at least as much and often quite a bit more.
Yes, but don’t expect any great savings. Clearly we wouldn’t keep dealers very long if we routinely undercut their prices. And it costs pretty much the same to get a completed trailer from the factory to your home whether you trailer it yourself, or we ship it to you or a dealer near you.